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Yuppp I did it....


I've been kind of fooling around for last 2weeks.
Work little bit, surf little bit, drink a lot at all night....
I was just telling myself " eh! why not I work supa hard all the time buu It's X'mas time
let me go for a while"

Then It happened two days ago.
First I kicked the rock before I surf. It was sooo sore that I thought I broke da finger...
After that, I paddleed out with my new AKULE 2 and caught a nice & long 2ft at Chuns.
I set da rail and get max speed at bottom to hit da rip.
But at the top of the wave, I put mll my weight on the knee and heard wierd sound like Pcchu!.
I knew I hurt my right knee. I guess it's ligament.

That's it No more surf & No more beer at least 2-3week.
My holiday season is over and no chice but get back to work (full time shaper)
eventought Christmas hasn't come yet.
It was pretty quick. I gotta stop pretending MOVIE STAR (Dick Brewer calls me "Movie star" at the factory,,,)

I'm sad but now I don't have to worry about surf that means much less stress for me.

MELEKALIKI MAKA to everybody
Have a safe holiday

MAHALO
MITSU


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Comments:1

DORA URL 2008-12-21 (日) 14:42

Are????? 最近音沙汰なかったんでちょっと
ブログチェックしてみたら。。。。ありゃりゃ。
大丈夫っすか、兄さん?
波とくによくないし、自分も仕事一直線モード
でここ数週間やってます。
そしたらBBQとかなにかぱーっとやりましょ。

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